April 5-7
The bus trip from Puno in Peru to La Paz, Bolivia was not without it´s inconveniences. We had to change buses at the border and after formalities (at least we didn´t end up having to pay the $US100 Visa fee that Eric and Rhonda had to) boarded a local bus (who could have thought you could fit 16 people plus luggage into a minivan) to Copacobana (yes set on a beach but not located in Rio). An hour or so for lunch and then it was another bus, smaller in size to the one we caught with Tour Peru to the border. A 3hr ride and one ferry journey later we entered La Paz, seemingly set on a flat with snow capped mountains rising behind until you gently descend into a valley (very much like Quito in Ecuador). It’s still sited at around 4050m in altitude.
Since we had only one full day in La Paz before heading to Uyuni and the salt flats I decided to join Pete and mountain bike “The World’s Most Dangerous Road” from La Paz to Choroico, with Gravity Bolivia. Not too bad at $US75 including all your gear, Kona mountain bikes with full suspension, wet weather gear, snacks and a pasta lunch at the end, plus the hot showers.
We started at 7.45am and didn’t arrive back at the Hotel Rosario until 8.30pm. A full day’s adventure with the accompanying four seasons in one day. Driving up to 4700m in sleet/snow, we dropped 3000m in altitude over 62km of sealed and gravel road, rain greeted us further down followed by sunshine. At times, the group of 12 led by Damon (a New Zealander) and Javier (a Bolivian) were completely drenched (from the rain). The gravel section is no more than 3m wide in parts sometimes blocked by rock slides and covered by splendid waterfalls. On one edge is a sheer drop of up to 600m. It’s chilling to note that people have been killed on this road riding it. That made it even more hairy. The guides were however excellent making the experience fun yet safe. Highly recommended.
The very next day we made our way to Uyuni via local bus (3hrs) then train (a further 7 hrs), arriving near 11pm, exhausted.
After a hearty breakfast at the Tonito Hotel, boy the Minuteman Restaurant is a credit to the owner, Chris, an American. They certainly do a mean breakfast, even if it doesn´t include bacon plus the pizza is to die for (as we would find out after our trip, only 35-65 Bolivianos for either a 25cm or 40cm dia pizza))
The sun in the Altiplano is striking in it´s brilliance with clear blue skies. Our 4WDs duly arrived at 11am in convoy, 3 Toyota Landcruisersof early 90´s vintage, each capable of seating 7 passengers plus driver but gladly for us there would only be 5 passengers. Sited on the top of each vehicle was a roof rack for our luggage and supplies, fuel (petrol), propane gas for cooking and food. Comfortably tucked inside our 4WD with Philippe, a 60yr old odd Bolovian gentleman at the helm, Pete, Emma, Tone, Heydi and I made our way through the dusty streets of Uyuni, first stop Cochani, a small village making it´s living off the salt production of the Salar (plus the usual small tourist gift shops) complete with a spitting Vichuna (a Llama like creature). A brief stop and then off to the Salt Hotel for Lunch. In the middle of the Salar, it´s completely made of salt and use to be tourist accommodations but due to the poor hygiene it´s now a tourist attraction only, price of admission, a piece of chocolate, 5-12 Bolivianos.
Wilma (our cook for the trip) whipped us up a great lunch of pasta and then we sped of across the Salt Lake to Isla Inchahausi, an island of rock in the middle of this great lake. As we drive along , the reflection of the sun from the salt acts like one giant mirage, as to entice us with a never approaching lake of water. Sunscreen, hats and sunglasses are mandatory in this environment, if one is not to experience salt blindness (did I make this up) or a very bad case of sunburn (as Pete had done on one or more occasion). The air is thin and the sun is strong. It wasn´t too many times that I wore short sleeves on this adventure.
The Isla, volcanic in appearance is dotted with cacti plus low growing bushes of varying descriptions. Spending a casual hour on the Isla and then it´s just over an hours drive to Bella Vista where we lodge for the night. It´s an old mining settlement. The lodge has fairly basic accommodation with 4 rooms off a large atrium. The beds are crammed into the room with 9 singles in ours each with 2 blankets and a pillow and sheets of questionable cleanliness. At least there´s a bathroom off the room with warm/hot water.
Dinner is a vegetable soup followed by meat balls and rice. We have the aid of a generator for lighting for a couple of hours. Hugo (our tour leader the this leg of our trip, Lulu left us in La Paz) springs a surprise for us after dinner in the clear crisp (read freezing) air of the Salar with a firework (singular) show on the basketball court. It´s brilliance lights the night´s sky as does the thousands of stars visible to us. I´m in bed by 10pm , the others not much later.
The very next morning after a breakfast of eggs and bread we set off early at 7.30am, destination the desert part of our trip. Passing through the town of San Juan we pick up a few supplies, treats really. Where can you buy a 750ml bottle of Lemon Bicardi Rum for the equivalent of $AUD5! It´s here that I meet a couple of Australian girls who were on the bus from Puno to La Paz with us. They have a horrible story to tell of their trip from Ururo to Uyuni by bus (we took the train by the way). Their bus crashed onto the side of the road in the middle of the night and they miraculously escaped fairly unblemished to catch a ride with another bus. We´d actually heard of another bus crash also from Cusco to Puno the same day we travelled that route. It was a local bus but 23 people were killed. The girls also had trouble with their 4WD expedition the previous day. They´d set off and their 4WD broke down 5 times, returning for another 4WD, that also broke down 3 times! Finally they had one that worked!!
From San Juan we travel along dusty stony roads (the 4WD´s rubber seals have seen better days with dust pouring in through the back where I´m sitting inundating the other occupants, it´s lucky I´m not an asthmatic!) to the military checkpoint at Chiguana where soldiers are housed in mushroom shaped accommodations. Stopping not ten minutes along upon entering the Desert of Siloli we view the Volcano Ollagtres, railway tracks passing into the distance of the horizon, the border between Bolivia and Chile.
As we progress we pass by many small lakes of various colours, volcanoes in the background. It´s very much like the central North Island of New Zealand, Rusty iron colours top the cones with various shades of grey/brown progressing downwards. Occasional snow caps are seen indicating the altitude that we are at. The lakes are turquoise green or pinky reds often inhabited by flamingoes and other species of small bird. A brief stop for then we hit the Arbol de Peidra (Rock tree formation) It´s a brief stop as by now many of us are tired from the bumpy, warm and dusty journey. It´s deceptive being inside the vehicle as when we disembark at our photo opportunities we’re often blown about by cool winds.
By around 4pm we reach our final destination for the day, Laguna Colorada, a large red lake, again with Flamingos (James Andean and Chilean species), flanked on all sides by mountains of various heights. The lodgings for the night are more basic with no showers and no running water but dinner is a welcome treat, Fried chicken and chips with salad, a credit to Wilma. It´s supposed to be the coldest night here as we´re now at 4200m, but it doesn´t feel that cool.
It´s 5am when I slowly awake. Today is a really early start for our view of the geysers in the early dawn when they´re at their most majestic. At least the geyser´s are themselves warm! I´m dressed with 4 layers on top, 2 layers down below plus hat, gloves and scarf but it´s ruddy freezing outside. It´s gotta be some degrees below zero with windshields frozen. Definitely feels as cool as Kilimanjaro, and that´s without any windchill too! An hour and a halves drive in the frigid conditions and we reach the Sol de Manana, the Geysers are at full steam as it were, the first one blowing directly into the air, an excellent picture opportunity. As the sun rises to produce an azure sky we make our way around bubbling mud pools and more geysers before driving to Laguna Chillvari and the hot springs. Beside the lodge are parked about a dozen 4WDs their occupants basking in the hot pools. The weather is still cool although the sun is out, my toes are slowly coming back to life! Breakfast then another hours drive to Laguna Verde (The Green Lake). Passing along some of the rocks made famous by Salvidor Dali. Beyond the Laguna Verde is Chile and San Pedro de Atacama, 5hrs drive away.
We drive back to the hot springs for lunch and for those brave or energetic enough a soak in the springs. Only Pete and Emma are game (little do they know that the sun´s stength at this altitude is enough to burn with sunscreen, even for but a half an hour)
Lunch is had in the comfort of shelter before an extended drive to our final night´s accomodation at Villa Mar, a small village of 500 odd people 2hrs north of our current location. Again we pass by snow capped peaks topping 5000m along dusty tracks sometimes going off road. Phillipe knows his stuff and we´re glad to have him as our driver.
Basic lodgings are again the theme for the day at Villa Mar but we do have hot showers if anybody wishes to avail themselves to them. Most of us decline. That evening we´re treated to a musical performance by a group of 5 music students from the local school and their teacher. A fitting end to our desert adventure.
Next morning a short drive to some rock formations outside town for some ad hoc rock climbing plus photo taking before driving to San Christobel, a town moved 5yrs ago to accommodate a silver mine! A brief stop then more driving before lunch, it´s then a short 1hr journey to Uyuni and the makings of civilisation, the road becomes better formed although still gravel, as high tension power lines guide the way adjacent to the now apparent salt flat of the Salar de Uyuni.
Just outside of Uyuni we have time to stop at the train cemetery, a collection of old rusting steam locomotives of the Bolovian Railway long since cannibalised for parts. They now lie rusting in the dry desert air.
At last we finish our journey into the Bolivian wilderness, thanking our drivers and cook, Wilma, we have but two hours to prepare for our departure for the next leg of our trip. Hot showers, Hot pizzas and cold beers are the order of the day as we depart at 5pm on board our private bus for the 8hr drive to Potosi (it´s only 215km!), gravel all the way. More adventure in the making…..
